Day 1 - Fukuyama Castle and Senkoji Temple - Setouchi's Samurai and Spiritual History

I start the day at Fukuyama Station, one of the major stations along the Sanyo Shinkansen Line, where I arrived moments earlier on the bullet train. Stepping out of the north side of the station, I leave my baggage in a coin locker, cross the street, and make my way up the steep incline leading to Fukuyama Castle.

Yes, the castle's inner bailey grounds are adjacent to the station, and even those simply passing through Fukuyama City will surely get a tempting glimpse of its imposing stone walls and reconstructed keep. You'll have to circle the grounds completely to discover Fukuyama Castle's unique secret: three sides of the castle are white, while the north-facing side, covered with iron plates for protection, is black.

Two structures from the original castle were designated as Important Cultural Properties: the Sujigane Gomon main gate, which you pass through when entering the castle grounds from the station, and the Kaneyagura (Bell and Drum Tower), which was used to sound the alarm to gather troops for battle and to tell the time, the latter of which continues to this day.

Another fascinating building on the castle grounds is the Oyudono, a bathhouse used exclusively by the castle lords and their esteemed guests. The bathhouse hangs audaciously over the south wall as if no one would dare attack the daimyo while he was bathing. And apparently, nobody ever did.

The Fukuyama Castle Museum is located on the five floors and basement of the reconstructed keep. Eye-catching exhibitions explain how and why the castle was built and about the clans that ruled from there, and the top floor offers a 360-degree view of Fukuyama City.

From Fukuyama, I continued on to the seaside town of Onomichi, the gateway to the Shimanami Kaido cycling trail on the Honshu side. It is worth it to explore this compact city that winds its way up the side of steep coastal mountains for anyone who has ever ridden a bicycle.

Halfway up one of these mountains, about 140 meters above sea level, you'll find Senkoji Temple. Legend says it was founded in the 9th century by the industrious Shingon Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi. Apparently, he also founded tons of other temples around Japan, including the 88 temples of the Shikoku Henro pilgrimage.

From Onomichi Station, the easiest way to access the temple on foot is to walk 15 minutes to the Senkoji Mountain Ropeway Station and take the scenic route to the top of the mountain. From there, it’s about 10 minutes walk downhill from the ropeway station to Senkoji Temple. This is a great way to enjoy the journey without using up all of your energy for the day.

The main hall of Senkoji hangs out over the side of the mountain, providing a breathtaking view of Onomichi Port below. If you'd like to make a wish, purchase an ema board and write your wish on it to hang at the temple. The ema board in the likeness of Rilakkuma was so cute that I took one home as a souvenir.

The Senkoji Bell Tower is another well-known temple building. Standing high above the city, the bell's beautiful ring can be heard from far and wide when it is struck. Often featured on New Year's Day when the ringing of temple bells across the nation is televised, it is a popular attraction for domestic tourists.

Senkoji Temple is part of Senkoji Park, which also contains the Onomichi Museum of Art and an elegantly designed viewing platform at the top of the hill beside the ropeway station. The view of the surrounding islands and blue sea fading into the distance was inspiring from the platform, especially since I would be traversing those same islands the next day.

Day 2 - Shimanami Kaido and Omishima Island - Discovering the Islands on Bicycle

Getting up early in the morning, I was excited to start my journey along the Shimanami Kaido cycling trail. Before we hit the trail, however, let's clarify a few possible misconceptions.

First, although officially the trail is listed as being around 70 kilometers in length, spanning from Hiroshima to Ehime prefectures, the network of trails is far greater than that, taking into account the number of side routes available on each of the islands. You could spend several leisurely days or even a week exploring areas along the Shimanami Kaido and still have plenty left to see.

Second, due to the wide variety of bikes available for rental on the trail, you don't have to be in competitive shape to complete it. Electric-assist bicycles are a boon to those who ride bicycles infrequently or don’t have stamina for long-distance rides.

Lastly, you don't have to do the Shimanami Kaido exclusively on a bicycle. If you are traveling by rental car, many companies and shops along the trail will rent you a bike for a day or two, or will take you on a customized biking tour around one or more of the islands. You can enjoy the trail in many ways, so if your time is limited, the experience of a ride on this exhilarating route through the Setouchi islands is still open to you.

That said, my first stop was Kojoji Temple, situated on a hill on Ikuchijima Island above Setoda Port. The temple was founded over 600 years ago and was known as a Zen training center, accommodating over 100 practitioners.

The temple's outstanding feature is its three-storied pagoda, which stands near the top of Mt. Choonzan. Constructed in 1432, this gorgeous vermillion tower has characteristics of both Chinese and Japanese design and detailed carvings in the joinery. There are several famous views of the pagoda, which are clearly defined and connected by a walking trail around the temple grounds. I found the most breathtaking was the view from Choonzan Park, slightly from above, where you could look down and see the upper part of the pagoda against the sparkling Inland Sea.

For the next part of my journey, I met my guides from Tabitasu at the roadside station on Omishima Island, the next island on the trail, across the Tatara Bridge. Tabitasu provides rental bicycles and bespoke guided tours, with tour guides available who are fluent in English. On today's tour, we visited the "power spots" of Omishima Island, including the venerable Oyamazumi Shrine, the oldest shrine in Ehime Prefecture.

My English-speaking guide, Azusa, accompanied me on a bicycle while another guide, Hiroki, followed in a support van, also driving ahead to take video for us as we rode around the island. Our first stop was the ancient Yokodono Palace Ruins Shrine, the original location of the Oyamazumi Shrine before it was moved to its current location. The modesty of what remains of the shrine belies its importance; however, the main reason for this location may have been the proximity to our next destination, the Mitarai Well. This freshwater well is located at the sea's edge and comes from below sea level; the mystery of how it provides fresh water is still unknown today. Whatever the case, the water is considered sacred, and is used in rituals at Oyamazumi Shrine, as it has been for over 1,400 years.

From here, we cycled up the scenic coastline before cutting through a mountain pass to the island's western side, where Oyamazumi Shrine is located. We first cycled past the shrine to its original entrance, marked by a huge torii gate near the sea. From there, we followed the ancient road to the shrine, which is still lined with small shops and restaurants.

Several ancient camphor trees that are nearly 3,000 years old live (though some just barely) on the grounds of the shrine, an astounding feat of nature, but Oyamazumi is most famous for its collection of ancient arms and armor. The shrine's treasure house contains the most extensive collection of weapons and armor deemed National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties in Japan. This is because the shrine was named the Nihon Sochinju, the "Protector shrine of Japan" in the 10th century, and many of Japan's ancient warlords donated arms and armor here as an offering for success in battle.

We returned to the coast just in time to catch the day's dramatic sunset before Hiroki arrived in the van to pick us up and drive me back to my accommodation.

Day 3 - Breathtaking Views from Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridges and the Charming Atmosphere of Dogo Onsen

Continuing toward Ehime along the Shimanami Kaido, I stopped at the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridges, one of the bridges of the Shimanami Kaido, for one of the most coveted experiences in the Setouchi region, a climb to the top of one of the bridge's main towers, about 180 meters above the sea.

The tower experience takes place for a limited time, so it requires some planning and reservations, but your efforts will be rewarded by this once-in-a-lifetime experience that is simply exhilarating. As someone who suffers from acrophobia, I expected it to be terrifying, but once I reached the top of the tower and saw the jaw-dropping view of the Seto Inland Sea, my fears completely disappeared.

But let's rewind a bit, because the experience begins on Oshima Island, where you are fitted with safety gear and a warm jacket (in the cooler months, it can get chilly at the top due to the wind) and are shown a safety video before boarding an open-sided boat heading for the tower. Along the way, an entertaining guide explains the history and construction of the bridge, along with information about a few of the small islands over which the bridge was built.

We cruised along the sea, admiring the bridges from the water until we landed at a small dock on Umashima Island and walked to the base of the bridge tower. We entered the tower through a small door near its base, and from this vantage point, I realized how enormous the Kurushima Bridges are, the three spans together over 4 kilometers long. The tour uses the maintenance infrastructure of the bridge, so we broke into small groups and boarded the elevator that took us up 52 stories before we walked the remaining few flights to the top.

Emerging into the bright sunlight, I gasped at the panoramic view of the bridge, which connects several small islands to the large island of Shikoku. From this perspective, the bridge resembles a lifeline connecting Shikoku to the rest of Japan, which it surely was when it first opened. My acrophobia was temporarily cured; I even stood atop small ladders along the tower wall to get a better view, looking straight down.

After spending about 15 minutes atop the tower, we continued our tour of the bridge closer to ground level, then boarded the boat again to view some of the Inland Sea attractions not associated with the bridge. On the Imabari side of the bridge, the shipbuilding and repair facilities were busy working on enormous tankers and cargo ships, which looked even more impressive from sea level. On our way back to our starting point, the pilot guided us to areas affected by the Inland Sea's unusual tides, where we could glimpse the turbulence and occasional small whirlpools caused by the conflicting tides. Overall, the tour lasted nearly two and a half hours, and I received a certificate of completion to prove that I had overcome my fear of heights and climbed to the top of Kurushima Bridge.

My time along the Shimanami Kaido had finished in the most thrilling way, so now it was time to unwind in one of Ehime's most relaxing destinations, Dogo Onsen. This neighborhood of Matsuyama City in Ehime Prefecture is considered Japan's oldest onsen hot spring area, estimated to be 3,000 years old. Legend states that the discovery of Dogo Onsen is attributed not to a person, but a white egret, which bathed its injured leg in Dogo's soothing waters and was instantly healed. The area pays tribute to this bird of fortune by including its image all around the neighborhood, including perched atop the elegant Dogo Onsen Honkan bath house.

The Honkan is a beautifully designed bathhouse that was built in 1894 and was recently completely renovated, reopening in July 2024. A symbol of Dogo Onsen's prosperity, the building even contains a special section built to be used only by the Emperor's Family. With the new renovation, several private rooms are available to rent on the third floor for visitors who would like to take a short rest after their bath.

But the Honkan is not the only public bath available in Dogo Onsen. Two newer facilities are located nearby, connected by a section of the shotengai, an enclosed shopping street. Asuka-no-Yu is the most recent addition, referred to as the annex to the Honkan. It was constructed in the architectural style of the Asuka Period (592-710) and contains spacious baths, resting rooms, and a special bath, which is a replica of the Emperor's private bath located in the Honkan that anyone can reserve. Next door, Tsubaki-no-Yu, constructed in 1953, resembles a traditional warehouse style. This bath is strictly business, just two gender-segregated baths and no other facilities. Each of the three bathhouses share the same famous egret-healing hot spring waters, so no matter which one you visit, you're sure to emerge feeling refreshed.

The shotengai shopping street connecting the bathhouses and Dogo Onsen Station is lined with an eclectic mix of shops, cafes, and restaurants selling local goods, crafts, and the region's famous cuisine. Keep an eye out for Ehime Dining Table 1970, which boasts 20 varieties of citrus juice on tap at any given time.

At the end of the shopping street, you'll arrive at Dogo Onsen Station, a streetcar station that is also the terminal for buses headed for Dogo Onsen. Two attractions related to the famous author Natsume Soseki, who set his partially autobiographical novel Botchan in Matsuyama, are located here. The first is the Botchan Train, a diesel replica of a steam train that runs along the streetcar lines of the city. When the train isn't running, it is parked just outside the station, where passersby can stop to take photos. The second is the Botchan Karakuri Clock, a mechanical clock that opens for a few minutes on the hour, between the hours of 8:00 am and 10:00 pm daily, to display various scenes from the novel, accompanied by music.

Day 4 - An Early Bath at Dogo Onsen Honkan and A Sample of the Shikoku Pilgrimage at Ishiteji Temple

At precisely 6:00 am, the striking of the taiko drum in the Shinkrokaku upper room of Dogo Onsen Honkan announces that the bathhouse is open for business. At this early hour, only the most dedicated bathers were out of bed and ready for a bath, so I enjoyed a slow and relaxing soak to start my final day of this tour.

For my last day, I started by visiting Ishiteji Temple, a fascinating temple also known as Temple 51 on the Shikoku Henro pilgrimage route. Unless you intend to add another few weeks or months to your trip, you probably won't be completing this 1,200-kilometer pilgrimage to the 88 temples along its route, so you'll just have to sample the Ohenro through Ishiteji and return for a deeper dive.

Ishiteji is a brisk 20-minute walk from Dogo Onsen, and the original pilgrimage route passed right through the Dogo area. Arriving at the front of the temple, the first thing I noticed is how packed full of structures and artifacts Ishiteji seems to be, almost spilling out into the road. In fact, if you look carefully at the gate of the temple, you'll see a rough stone bridge crossing a small stream at the edge of the road. Legend states that the founding monk Kobo Daishi (see, he really got around) laid the bridge himself.

If the temple complex feels a bit old, that's because it is; the temple layout is from the Kamakura Period of the 12th century, and several of the temple's buildings, including the Niomon Gate, three-storied pagoda, and main hall, survived a fire in 1566. With so many structures built centuries apart throughout its long history, there is a lot to digest here. This is a truly ancient temple, and the evidence can be seen in the artifacts spread throughout the temple and on display in its dimly lit and, unfortunately, poorly documented museum. One item in the museum is a palm-sized round stone. After Emon Saburo, a wealthy farmer who originated the Shikoku pilgrimage died, a baby of a powerful family in this area was born holding a stone. The stone was inscribed with the words, “Emon Saburo returns” which is the origin of the temple’s name, “Stone-hand Temple.”

Dug deep into the hillside behind the temple buildings, a system of roughly hewn tunnels exist to take you to other mysterious areas of the temple grounds. Long ago, pilgrims would have to make their way through the tunnels in pitch darkness, chanting sutras along the way. Even in the dim electric light of the present, passing through the tunnels is an eerie experience. One destination of the tunnels is the Inner Sanctuary which contains a strange golden onion-shaped building and wooden carvings in the images of Buddha which can best be described as somewhat disturbing. From the Inner Sanctuary, you can follow the old pilgrimage route much of the way back to Dogo Onsen Station, where you can catch a bus or train to Matsuyama Station or Airport at the end of your journey.