Strolling Sakoshi Port Town, A Japanese Heritage Site

Before the age of trains and highways arrived in Japan, trade was primarily done by boat. Kitamae-bune merchant ships traveled up and down the coast of Japan, stopping to buy and sell merchandise during the Edo and Meiji Periods (roughly 17th to 19th centuries). It was during this period that Sakoshi thrived as a naturally protected port along Hyogo Prefecture’s Inland Sea coastline. Because of its importance as a port of call for sailing ships, it was preserved as a Japanese Heritage site, with many buildings from that era surviving today.

The bulk of these buildings are along the Dai-do main road, which runs from the port to the Chikusa River about 500 meters away. Get your bearings here at the Sakoshi Machinamikan Museum, which contains old artifacts such as tools and domestic items and information about Sakoshi's history as a port town. Nearby, the Okuto Sake Brewery has been in business for about 400 years and has a free museum related to the history of sake brewing and distribution of centuries ago.

Tenmasen is a charming shop along the Dai-do specializing in oysters, a winter delicacy of the Seto Inland Sea. When fresh oysters are not in season, oyster crackers are a delicious alternative. You'll also find a variety of local souvenirs to purchase here.

After exploring the townscape, climb the short hill to Osake Shrine for a view of the townscape and Sakoshi Bay. Here, the connection between the sea and the spiritual is palpable, with ema prayer boards adorned with images of merchant ships and local festivals. If you have the stamina, continue climbing the hill to Myokenji Temple for a more dramatic view of Sakoshi Bay and the islands of the Inland Sea.

Cycling Ushimado Seaside Town Along the "Aegean Sea of Japan"

The serene atmosphere of Okayama Prefecture’s Ushimado today belies its importance as a center of domestic and international maritime trade during the Edo Period (1603-1868). The town's stunning seaside landscape and temperate climate earned it the nickname "The Aegean Sea of Japan," complete with olive gardens. It also flourished as one of the ports of call for the Korean envoys who were dispatched to meet the shogun.

The fine weather and beautiful views make Ushimado the perfect place to explore by bicycle. Rent a bike from the Tourist Information Center near the port and cycle to Ushimado Shrine, which has sweeping views of the town and the sea. From the shrine, you can continue to the Ushimado Olive Garden, Japan's largest olive oil producer, with 10,000 olive trees growing on the manicured hillside above the town.

Exploring the streets of the town, you'll find the Kaiyu Cultural Museum, which showcases the town's fascinating history. The Mifune Danjiri, an elaborately crafted float used in festivals and one of Japan's Important Cultural Properties is housed here. You might see this float and others like it used in Ushimado Shrine’s autumn festival, celebrating the connection between the town and Korean envoys who stayed here on the way to greet the Shogun.

As the sun begins to set over the Seto Inland Sea, relax and take in the breathtaking colors, warm breeze, and calming sounds of this seaside town.

Stunning Sea Views at the Site of an Epic Battle in Yamaguchi

The 12th-century Genpei War between the Minamoto (Genji) and Taira (Heike) clans, a five-year-long civil war encompassing numerous battlegrounds across Japan, is the source of many stories and legends. It was here on the Kanmon Straits of Yamaguchi Prefecture the war finally ended, with the Minamoto fleet defeating the larger and more navally adept Taira fleet.

Fittingly, the fickle tide that initially gave the Taira an advantage against the Minamoto changed during the battle. The Minamoto were also aided by the mid-battle defection of a Taira general, Taguchi Shigeyoshi, who attacked the Taira fleet in a surprise attack from the rear. Once the Taira warriors saw the tide of battle turn against them, many committed suicide to avoid the dishonor of a loss.

Mimosusogawa Park stretches along the shores of the strait, beneath the imposing Kanmon Bridge connecting Honshu and Kyushu. Commemorating the battle in the nearby waters, two statues representing the Minamoto and Taira clans face each other, poised in eternal battle. Another monument, replicas of the Choshu cannons used in a battle that helped bring the end to the Tokugawa Shogunate, are also located here, underscoring the fact that this was a location for major turning points in two crucial battles in Japanese history.

The Ebb and Flow of Historic Tomonoura

The ebb and flow of time and tide also affected the fortunes of the historic port town of Tomonoura. Situated at a central point of the Inland Sea where the tides flowing west and east meet on the coast of Hiroshima Prefecture, Tomonoura was a natural harbor for ships navigating the coast of Japan to stop and wait for the changing of the tide. As such, it thrived as a merchant town and, with the help of the Tokugawa Shogunate, monopolized the Homeishu medicinal liqueur market of the Edo era.

Advances in transportation technology in the late 19th century spelled the end of Tomonoura's importance as a trading port. By the end of the century, the town had fallen on hard times. Even its connection to Japanese folk hero Ryoma Sakamoto, a samurai who was instrumental in transforming Japan into a modern nation, did little to convince the government that the town deserved preservation.

But the tides of fortune turned suddenly in Tomonoura's favor when Studio Ghibli director and animator Hayao Miyazaki used Tomonoura as his inspiration for the popular animated film, "Ponyo." The success of Ponyo and Miyazaki's advocacy for the city brought a steady stream of tourists, reviving small businesses and helping locals make a case for preserving the town.

Today, Tomonoura is an important cultural town preserving some unique aspects of Japanese history. The sprawling Homeishu brewery and residence was sold to the Ota merchant family when the original owners went bankrupt. The Ota family invested hundreds of millions of yen to restore and preserve the facility, which is now open for the public to enjoy. The entire process of making and distributing homeishu can be seen here thanks to generous work of the Ota family.

When the Homeishu monopoly ended, many smaller breweries in Tomonoura began producing the drink; now, four brewers remain open for business. Made with sweet mirin sake and Japanese and Chinese herbs, the flavor is medicinal but not unpleasantly so. The proprietor of one of the shops explained that combined with carbonated water, it can pass as an alcoholic craft cola with health benefits.

Along the waterfront are several important remnants of Tomonoura's history. Gangi steps, which allow boats to dock and be loaded and unloaded regardless of the tide level, line the port, the best-preserved example of this architecture in Japan. The Joyato streetlight in the shape of a Torodo lighthouse keeps watch at a corner of the port; the light burns all night for ships and pedestrians alike. Surrounding the port, the stone breakwater used for mooring boats and fishing is the original structure from the Edo Period.

Dozens of temples dot the townscape, especially on hillsides, providing extraordinary views of the seaside. The Taichoro reception hall of Fukuzenji Temple, the building representative of the temple, was specifically constructed to welcome Korean envoys when they came to pay respect to a new Shogun. In 1711, one such envoy praised the view from Taichoro as "the most beautiful scenery in the region east of Korea." One glimpse of Bentenjima and the other scenery are framed by Taichoro's windows, and you will undoubtedly agree with him.

The Fireproof Status Symbols of Mima's Udatsu Townscape

Away from the coast of the Seto Inland Sea but still well connected by the vast Yoshino River, a neighborhood of modern-day Mima City in Tokushima preserves an unusual display of wealth and prestige in its architecture.

This section of Mima was known as Wakimachi, part of the castle town of Waki Castle, which watched over Japan's largest distribution areas for aizome, indigo dye-related products. Indigo was an important material in old Japan; known for its flame retardance and snake and insect repelling attributes, it was used for firemen uniforms and samurai armor.

The indigo dyeing industry made many merchants rich in Wakimachi, and to protect their precious homes and businesses, they added expensive architectural enhancements called udatsu to the buildings. Udatsu were extra plaster walls that served as a fire break if an adjacent building caught fire. As the wealth of the merchants grew, so did the grandness of udatsu. Larger, more ornate udatsu were constructed in a subtle act of bragging between merchant families. Many of the udatsu remain, giving Wakimachi a unique appearance among preserved Edo Period townscapes.

The Yoshida Family Residence is the former home of one of the prosperous indigo-dyeing families, one of the most lovingly preserved and lavishly restored of Udatsu’s antique buildings, built in 1792. The property comprises five buildings arranged around a courtyard, while the residence consists of a main house, two storehouses, a warehouse for indigo dyeing, and a detached house. Designated as a Tangible Cultural Property, the compound underwent large-scale renovations in 2001 to fully restore it to its glory days, highlighting the architecture’s polished wooden staircases, exposed beams under the ceilings, and decorative wood carvings, in addition to period furniture and other artifacts.

Around the corner from the Yoshida Family Residence is the Michi no Eki Ai-land Udatsu, a modest two-story building selling local products and offering a limited lunch service. Michi no Eki are ubiquitous roadside rest areas in Japan, open to the public for a break and often, a quick bite to eat. If you miss out on lunch here, Udatsu Sabo is a nearby cafe that sources its rice and produce from the city of Mima and most other ingredients from Tokushima Prefecture.

At the eastern end of Udatsu's main street stands Wakimachi's crown jewel: the Wakimachi Theater. Also known as Odeon-za, this theater was built in 1934 for kabuki and other live performances, transforming into a playhouse and movie theater after WW2. Don't let its Western-style exterior deceive you; inside, it is laid out like a traditional kabuki theater with tatami mat seats and a revolving stage. Only a few original kabuki theaters remain in Japan, so this spot is a must-see for visitors to Wakimachi.

The Grand Takamatsu Castle on the Sea

The main keep of Takamatsu Castle has long since gone, but with a bit of imagination, you can envision the splendor of what was one of the few Japanese castles built directly on the sea. The sturdy stone walls, guard turrets, and reinforced gates still mark the boundaries of the once formidable castle, built in 1590 by the Ikoma Clan before the Tokugawa Shogunate gave it to their family relatives, the Matsudaira Clan.

The observation deck atop the ruins of the main keep affords the best view of the castle's original layout. Particularly striking from this viewpoint is the wooden walkway bridging the castle's core to its protective enclosure. With its reinforced columns and added rooftop, the bridge’s symbolic crossing whisks you back in time to the power spot of the main keep. Hiunkaku Palace, which served as a villa for the ruling family built in the Taisho Period (after the castle was defunct), is only open for special events, but you can peek inside through its transparent outer walls. The recently restored Sakuragomon Gate, with its open wooden doors welcoming you inside the inner castle grounds, marks another symbolic crossing, and stands as a majestic testament to Takamatsu city’s dedication to preserve iconic parts of its once-mighty fortress.

A boat ride on the inner moat gives you the best vantage point of the castle grounds, while a straw-hatted gondolier helps you fill in a mental image of the details of the missing keep as you hold the illustrated fan in position above the ruins. Floating on the seawater-filled moat, keep an eye out for the two species of saltwater tai (sea bream) that inhabit the water in place of the freshwater koi that live in most castle moats.

Experience the Tides at Noshima Suigun

It's one thing to talk about the effects of the tide on the Seto Inland Sea; it is another thing entirely to experience them. To feel the tide's pull as you cruise around the beautiful islands of Setouchi, make a stop on Oshima Island, one of the islands along the Shimanami Kaido route connecting Ehime and Hiroshima Prefectures. From the Noshima Ferry Terminal, small tour boats will motor you around Noshima and Taizaki Islands where the topology of the straits creates a complicated swirl of clashing tides.

The tides are a boon for fishermen, bringing a host and variety of fish and other sea life within easy reach of their lines and nets. But they also represent an ever-present danger, with the power of the tides capable of smashing small vessels into the rocks if the ship's pilots are inexperienced. A local group of the past named Murakami pirates knew the tides well enough that they could extort tolls by guiding ships through the treacherous waters. Fortunately, the pilots of the tour boats are extremely experienced and can bring you up to and even into the strong tides, so you can experience their power first-hand. On days or times with particularly strong tides, you may even see swirling whirlpools form and dissipate in the waters around you, and feel the strong pull of the current as it tugs against the boat’s engines.

Besides the water, the islands' rugged landscape and the Hakata-Oshima Bridge, one of the bridges of the Shimanami Kaido, are part of the beautiful scenery you'll enjoy on this roughly 40-minute cruise. Experiencing the tide is undoubtedly the highlight of the tour and is what ties together all of your experiences along the Seto Inland Sea.