Art & Culture

Art and adventure along Japan’s Inland Sea: SETOUCHI GUIDE

Art and adventure along Japan’s Inland Sea: SETOUCHI GUIDE

Produced for Japan National Tourism Organization by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions

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Setouchi is a quiet adventurer with mischievous charm, beckoning you to wander across island-studded waters to discover stunning pockets of art amid soulful serenity. Always with a thoughtful surprise, Setouchi gives you an opportunity to connect with life's rhythm in a different way.

Setouchi is composed of seven prefectures, with four lying along the Seto Inland Sea on Japan’s main island of Honshu, and three more on the island of Shikoku. Over 700 smaller islands are scattered between them, awaiting discovery.

Set off on an adventure away from the usual routes—explore contemporary art while island hopping by ferry, cycle along scenic seaside trails, and venture into the nature-rich landscapes of Yamaguchi, Setouchi’s southernmost prefecture.

The art of exploration: Setouchi art islands

Nestled in the tranquil Seto Inland Sea, the Setouchi art islands charm visitors with a tapestry of contemporary art, rural landscapes and the soothing rhythm of island life. Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture serves as the main gateway to a number of the art islands, offering convenient access by ferry to Naoshima island, the most well-known among them.

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Naoshima has built an international following as a leading centre for contemporary art and architecture, there are other delightful Setouchi art islands for you to discover, showcasing works from both local and overseas artists. Here are a few to consider.

The fishing villages and rice fields on the island of Teshima create a bucolic setting for a range of museums and outdoor installations, including the Teshima Art Museum. Renting an e-bike is both an enjoyable and practical way to explore all that Teshima has to offer. By contrast, Inujima island is compact enough to be explored on foot. Visit the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum, an innovative museum crafted from the ruins of a former copper refinery, and wander through the village's charming streets. Visitors who wish to visit the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum should check ticket availability on its website, as it is closed from December 1 to February 28.

Art lovers should also consider visiting Omishima island. While perhaps best known as the largest island along the Shimanami Kaido cycling trail, Omishima is also home to several excellent museums. These include the Tokoro Museum Omishima, which boasts an impressive collection of modern art set against views of the Seto Inland Sea. The glow of natural light fills the museum’s galleries, which cascade downhill to a breathtaking open terrace.

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Meanwhile, the Omishima Museum of Art, features contemporary Japanese paintings within an atmospheric building lined with traditional washi paper interiors. You can reach Omishima from Hiroshima Prefecture, via ferry from Tadanoumi Port, or by highway bus from Fukuyama City.

Complement your Setouchi contemporary art experience with accommodation that blends timeless Japanese aesthetics with modern comfort. The Bikan District of Kurashiki (Okayama Prefecture), a charming city with white-walled storehouses and canals lined with willow trees, is where you'll find Yoruya, a luxuriant 13-room inn. The Bikan District is also home to a number of museums, including the Ohara Museum of Art, which includes an impressive collection by world-famous artists.

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Meanwhile, in the port city of Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture), a beloved inn dating back to 1943 has been reborn as the Ryokan Onomichi Nishiyama.

Riding the Yumeshima Kaido

Cycling enthusiasts flock to the Shimanami Kaido, a world-class route that stretches from Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture) to Imabari (Ehime Prefecture), crossing six islands and seven towering bridges. If you want to try this route, it’s best to begin your journey by taking a ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima, where you can hop on your bicycle. This avoids the first stretch of the route directly from Onomichi, which lacks a dedicated bicycle lane and can be dangerous for cyclists.

By comparison, the Yumeshima Kaido cycling trail still flies under the radar of most international visitors. This route in Kamijima (Ehime Prefecture) connects four scenic islands—Iwagijima, Ikinajima, Sashima, and Yugejima—via three bridges and well-maintained roads, making it suitable even for beginners. The circular 63-kilometer-trail can be explored in full or divided into shorter rides through peaceful villages along picturesque coastal roads.

Experience a slower pace of life in Kamijima, which is connected to the mainland by ferry from Imabari (Ehime Prefecture) and other ports. Highlights include sampling sweets and cuisine made with Iwagijima’s famous green lemons, and hiking up Mt. Sekizen, which rewards climbers with panoramic views and lovely cherry blossoms in spring. In recent years, traditional buildings have been converted into guesthouses, making Kamijima the perfect place to embrace the relaxed island lifestyle while interacting with the local community. Yugejima is a convenient starting point for the Yumeshima Kaido, offering ferry access, accommodation, and rental cycle facilities.

The charm of Yamaguchi

At the westernmost tip of mainland Japan is Yamaguchi Prefecture, where an appealing blend of folklore, dramatic landscapes, and warm hospitality await—not to mention some of Japan’s finest seafood. The city of Nagato is a perfect base for experiencing it all.

Established in 1955 by divine decree of a white fox spirit, Motonosumi Shrine is renowned for its 123 vibrant red torii gates, which make a stunning contrast against the Sea of Japan. Before strolling down through the vermillion tunnel, be sure to stop at the cliff-top shrine and test your aim by tossing coins into the offering box atop the tallest gate. White foxes are often featured in Japanese folklore, and legend has it that the fox god will grant your wishes for prosperity, good health, and even love—if you can land a coin in the box!

The island of Omijima lies off the coast of Nagato and is part of a protected national park often referred to as Japan’s “Alps of the Sea”. Known for its dramatic cliffs, sea caves, and rock formations, a sightseeing cruise is a great way to admire this natural artistry. The island, which is also accessible by bridge from the mainland, is a year-round favourite for scuba diving, too. And why not make the most of your time in Nagato City with a relaxing overnight stay at Otani Sanso Bettei Otozure?

Chosen as a Michelin Key Hotel, this atmospheric accommodation on Yumoto Onsen offers a modern twist on the traditional Japanese onsen (hot springs) inn with a private open-air bath for every guestroom.

A short distance from Nagato is Akiyoshido Cave, Japan's largest and most spectacular limestone cave system, located within the Akiyoshidai Quasi-National Park. Journey into this otherworldly realm of limestone pools, stalactites, and stalagmites, where the temperature remains a comfortable 17°C year-round. After your subterranean exploration, enjoy the natural beauty of the Akiyoshidai Plateau above ground, one of Japan's largest karst plateaus. Both Akiyoshidai and Akiyoshido are natural wonders, shaped by over 300 million years of geological transformation above ground, one of Japan's largest karst plateaus.

Your unforgettable journey along Japan's scenic Inland Sea starts here in Setouchi, where creativity meets adventure. What will your Setouchi story look like?

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Yamaguchi

Yamaguchi is surrounded by ocean, mountains and rivers and is characterized by its climate, which is comfortable throughout the year. Its natural scenery, which includes some 1,500 kilometers of coastline, is a cut above. The prefecture has Kintaikyo Bridge, one of the three most famous bridges in Japan, and other tourist attractions, and its fugu (pufferfish) is famous as a winter dish.

Yamaguchi