Relaxing Stay

Kokian: An Onsen Oasis in Yamaguchi City

Kokian: An Onsen Oasis in Yamaguchi City

Kokian operates as an oasis of serenity in the city of Yamaguchi which has recently been included in The New York Times’ list of 52 places to visit in 2024. The publication noted that though Yamaguchi is known as the “Kyoto of the West” it has much more to offer visitors. The city is compact and relatively untouristy in many parts. For example, the city was modeled after Kyoto for about 200 years beginning around the 14th century, and is home to wonderful shrines and temples such as Ruriko-ji Temple, a five-story pagoda that is a national treasure. Other notable features include Yuda Onsen, known for its hot springs, cafes, restaurants, and interesting alleyways perfect for strolling.

A Peaceful Onsen Retreat in Yamaguchi City

After driving past the surrounding buildings and hotels in this popular onsen (hot spring) resort area, it’s a surprise to step into the crisp open spaces of the silent lobby. Through the glass, grass seems to glow green in the sunlight. Lining the lawn sits a row of comfortable seats for ashiyu, hot springs specifically to warm and relax your feet.

Somewhat of a rarity for a ryokan, Kokian’s large grassed areas are ideal for relaxing and soaking up the sun.

The spacious and laidback feel to Kokian continues as you enter into the building.

The open plan room extends its airy feel into the garden with its grassed area and private pool.

With everything so perfectly arranged and luxurious, it is no surprise that the cuisine is a sheer delight for the taste buds.

The spa and treatment room fully caters to pampering your body, and they even have a couple’s room.

While every room has its own private bath, sometimes there is no substitute for a bigger bath for that authentic onsen experience.

Open ceilings and the fireplace at the center of the lobby infuse the space with a holiday feel. For me, it conjures up images of a beach house blended with a chalet, combining two of my favorite holiday spots. Once in the lobby, the traffic and bustle of the streets outside seems a distant memory.

Seated in the comfortable lounge overlooking the garden, calm just washes in, even if it’s only for a few moments before being escorted to my private sanctuary deeper within this ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).

The room is generous in size, and the view of the garden adds to the air of spaciousness of the interior. The large windows open onto a small pool, and a cozy hot spring bath overlooks the enclosed garden full of trees. Cleverly concealed by the strategically placed greenery, you’d never guess the ryokan is surrounded by buildings.

The serene outside area is perfectly complemented by a spacious open plan room separated into living, lounge, and bedroom areas. A low table for dining, reading or board games sits in the center, while the lounge sofa and massage chair are so comfortable you will have to muster some will power to drag yourself away.

If this isn’t all relaxing enough, let the expert hands of one of the spa therapists take you to a place of bliss. The rejuvenating services include an assortment of aromatherapy, massage, and hot spring treatments that are crafted to help lose yourself in that zone between euphoria and slumber.

The main bathing facilities offer more space to spread out and relax than the more intimate smaller tubs in each room. Kokian’s onsen water is also unusual in that it doesn’t carry the strong odors which accompany some other volcanic hot springs, allowing you to fully soak in benefits of the water, relaxing for as long as you want without having to tolerate that distinct sulphuric aroma.

Culinary Excellence and the Best of Japanese Hospitality

Kokian’s restaurant offers seasonal delicacies, as well as a full fugu (blowfish) course meal for anyone looking to experience the world-famous, regional speciality. What’s more you can choose to dine in the intimacy of a private room, the bright and airy restaurant surrounding the grassy courtyard, or when the weather beckons, taking your meal on the terrace. Whatever the location, you are sure to be impressed with the delicately constructed meals made from the finest of local ingredients.

You simply can’t go amiss with anything cuisine-related at a modern Japanese-Western inn, and Kokian’s attention to detail and emphasis on quality will leave you wanting for nothing.

The Ultimate Restorative Retreat

Despite the variety of luxurious options for spending your time in Kokian, the simplicity of plush lounge chairs set out on the lawn seem most inviting to me as I take in all this oasis in the city has to offer. Although, it won’t be too long before I head for a swim in my private pool, which is sure to be followed by relaxing into the wooden tub as I watch my courtyard treetops dance in the wind and contemplate the multi-course gourmet dinner that will headline my evening.

Photographs by Julian Littler & Kokian Text by Julian Littler

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Yamaguchi

Yamaguchi is surrounded by ocean, mountains and rivers and is characterized by its climate, which is comfortable throughout the year. Its natural scenery, which includes some 1,500 kilometers of coastline, is a cut above. The prefecture has Kintaikyo Bridge, one of the three most famous bridges in Japan, and other tourist attractions, and its fugu (pufferfish) is famous as a winter dish.

Yamaguchi