Art & Culture
4 Days Exploring the Setouchi Art Islands and Himeji Castle

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- 30 January, 2025
There’s something unique about the confluence of contemporary art, historical landmarks and breathtaking scenery that we can find in the Setouchi region. Here, the culturally conscious traveler will find a breath of fresh air from the usual tourist hotspots, finding instead the ideal destination to gain a greater understanding of Japan's cultural landscape. This 4-day itinerary takes you through some of the region’s most remarkable highlights, from the world-famous Himeji Castle—a masterpiece of samurai-era architecture—to captivating art installations on Shodoshima Island.
Along the way, we’ll introduce gems that showcase different facets of the best of Japanese artistry and traditions. Accessible from cities like Osaka or Hiroshima, this itinerary is suitable for both first-time visitors and those returning for a more in-depth experience, with the promise of a memorable journey through Japan’s cultural and artistic heritage, balancing historical exploration and artistic discovery.
Day 1: Arrival in Okayama – Korakuen Garden and Okayama Castle
The Beauty of Korakuen Garden
After arriving in Okayama, I headed straight to Okayama Korakuen Garden, one of Japan’s most renowned landscape gardens. Walking through the main gate, I was struck by the sense of spaciousness–large open lawns, expansive enough to see most of it from a vantage spot, and inspiring to take long leisurely strolls around it–so it didn’t take long to understand why this is considered one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan. The wide, open lawns created an inviting contrast to the koi-filled ponds and delicate bridges scattered throughout the grounds. Developed in the Edo period(1603-1868) for the lords of Okayama Castle, it served as a refined retreat to relax outside the castle walls. In fact, the lord would often travel here by boat along the nearby Asahi River, enjoying the beauty of the garden as a welcome contrast to his fortified residence.
I meandered along the garden’s pathways in front of the Enyo-tei House. The original building–the current one is a reconstruction as the original was burnt at WWII– was created as a resting pavilion for the feudal lords during the 17th century, when Lord Ikeda first commissioned Korakuen as a place of leisure and contemplation–to take in the view. From the garden, I could see Okayama Castle standing proudly in the background, its black facade a stark yet harmonious complement to the surrounding greenery.
The seasonal beauty of autumn added just enough color to the scene without feeling overpowering. Near the Ryuten Pavilion, an elegant, covered viewing platform designed to let visitors appreciate the scenery in any weather, I took a moment to sit by a stream that quietly gurgled beneath the wooden structure. This is a garden designed to be experienced slowly, with walking paths encircling the central pond, allowing you to freely explore and appreciate every detail as you move through it.
It was already lunchtime when I left the garden, a perfect opportunity to stop in at Shiromi-chaya, a charming udon noodle restaurant with picture-perfect views of Okayama Castle, where I had a delicious tempura udon with a scenic break.
Okayama Castle
Crossing the Asahi River, I made my way to Okayama Castle, originally completed in around 1597, but heavily damaged during World War II. Subsequently, it was carefully reconstructed in the 1960s to replicate its original grandeur–in contrast to Himeji Castle, which largely escaped such destruction–. Known as “Crow Castle” for its sleek black walls, the structure had a sophisticated and imposing presence that contrasted with the tranquil atmosphere of the garden I’d just left.
Inside, the castle had more than just historical displays. Following a significant renewal completed in 2021, the exhibits became even more engaging and interactive, featuring samurai armor and artifacts that painted a vivid picture of the region’s feudal past.
The rebuilt Okayama Castle incorporates modern touches that stand out, like a cafe where visitors can watch a subtitled video presentation by a scholar explaining the castle’s architecture and history, and hands-on kimono-wearing experience, and an elevator for easier access.
In addition, multi language support via QR codes are a great way to learn about the castle history beyond language barriers. These contemporary features enhance the visitor experience, highlighting how the castle balances its historical legacy with modern entertainment and convenience.
Of course, there’s also the nice views at the top of the six-story donjon. From this vantage point, I could look back at Korakuen Garden and beyond, appreciating the careful planning that tied these two landmarks together.
Bizen-yaki Pottery Workshop
As the afternoon waned, I joined a Bizen-yaki pottery workshop held within the castle grounds. This style of pottery, with its distinctive unglazed, earthy finish, is one of Okayama’s proudest cultural exports. Guided by a friendly instructor, I shaped a simple dish, which I could decorate as I saw fit, either with stamps or carving a drawing.
These things always take a little more work than it looks like but it’s always worth it. I think some of the most cherished souvenirs are those you learn to make yourself, bonus points if it’s something representative from the region. Although I wasn’t able to take my piece home immediately—it needed to be fired in a kiln first—it was shipped to me later.
Day 2: Kurashiki’s Historical Charm and Art
Bikan Historical Quarter
I start the day stepping into the Bikan Historical Quarter, a gorgeous district whose roots date back to the Edo Period when it thrived as a vital rice distribution center. Over time, the area preserved man of its original kura storehouses, evolving into a carefully maintained historical park that highlights its merchant heritage. The cobblestone streets, white-walled storehouses, and willow trees swaying gently by the canals created an atmosphere that was both tranquil and captivating. Wandering along the waterways, I noticed small boats gliding through the canal, steered by locals dressed in traditional garb and creating some of the most picturesque scenes in the area.
The area is filled with shops and galleries that preserve Kurashiki’s artisanal spirit. Local denim is noteworthy, particularly on Kurashiki Denim Street, the cornerstone of Japanese denim culture, thanks to the city’s history as a center for cotton production. Trendy cafes and sweets shops round out the dynamic commercial culture of the district.
Though the area is peaceful in the early hours, there’s a buzz of activity if you know where to look. A few tourists were already queuing up for sweet treats at a small wagashi shop, while others took their time exploring the galleries scattered throughout the district. Kurashiki’s charm lies in these little details, a new discovery behind every single corner as you walk by.
Exploring the Ohara Museum of Art
One of the area’s most distinguished highlights is the Ohara Museum of Art, a historically renowned place at the vanguard of Japanese appreciation of Western art. Established in 1930 by industrialist Ohara Magosaburo, this museum was the first in Japan to focus on Western artworks on a permanent basis. Ohara envisioned that the museum would contribute to society.
At the start of the 20th century, Ohara Magosaburo, guided by the principle “to do what is meaningful to society at large,” recognized painter Kojima Torajiro’s potential and sent him to Europe to study. Immersed in the avant-garde movements that were shaking the foundations of European art, Kojima returned convinced that collecting Western pieces–such as works by Monet, Gauguin, and Picasso–would serve Japan’s broader artistic community.
Although initially hesitant, Ohara agreed after seeing positive responses to these acquisitions. Following Kojima’s untimely death, Ohara established the Ohara Museum of Art, using the significant collection they had assembled. This was not a wealthy patron’s private pastime but a purposeful endeavor to introduce and integrate Western art into Japan’s evolving cultural sphere at a pivotal time when Japan was opening up to the world.
The museum's architecture is inspired by several styles such as Art Noveau, and we can find nods to the building’s own evolution, such as a wall constructed of old stones integrated with new materials that turn the building itself into another work of art. It’s a wonderful sample of Western aesthetics and Japanese sensibility. As I wandered through the galleries, I couldn't help but reflect on the foresight of Ohara and Kojima in bringing such works to Japan, fostering a cultural dialogue that continues to this day. Over time, Ohara’s descendants have continued to broaden the collection, incorporating both modern Japanese paintings and contemporary art, maintaining the Ohara Museum of Art at the forefront of artistic innovation.
Art Beyond the Museum at Kurashiki’s Cafes
Leaving the museum did not mark the end of the day’s artistic endeavors. As evening approached, I sought out Moon Grace, a nearby café known for its artistic ambiance and innovative menu. The café is participating in a local campaign event, offering art-inspired sweets that delight both the palate and the eyes.
I ordered the "Windmill Parfait," a dessert inspired by Paul Signac's painting "Canal of Avercy" which is part of Ohara’s collection. The parfait featured layers of jelly, ice cream, grapes and nuts, adorned with edible flowers reflecting Signac's delicate color palette. The plate was artistically decorated with blue waves crafted from butterfly pea tea and whipped cream, echoing the painting's water scenes. This dessert is only available for a limited time as part of a local campaign, but that’s just part of the charm of Kurashiki, where we can find stylish events just like this one!
Day 3: Shodoshima – Art, History, and Culinary Heritage
Shodoshima is the region’s second-largest island, celebrated for its temperate Mediterranean-like climate that enabled one of Japan’s earliest successes in olive cultivation. Beyond olives, this island is renowned for its long-standing traditions in soy sauce production, charming rural landscapes, and its growing reputation as an art hub, the latter being the main reason that brings me here.
Art Safari on the Mito Peninsula
And so I begin the next leg of the journey, at one of the Setouchi Triennale Art Islands renowned for its outdoor art installations and natural beauty. Shodoshima is easy to reach by ferry from Okayama, so after arriving to the island, I made my way to the Mito Peninsula, an area dotted with both permanent and site-specific artworks.
There, I embarked on what locals call an “art safari,” weaving through winding roads and coastal trails to find some of the island’s hidden treasures. Among the highlights was the Hermit Crab, a giant wooden sculpture, cleverly tucked into an abandoned house and a challenging find. Its surreal placement in a quiet neighborhood gave it an almost mythical feel.
Not far from there, I came across "The Time of the Beginning", a sculpture shaped like a cracked egg, positioned against a backdrop of the shimmering Seto Inland Sea. I had timed my visit perfectly, with the afternoon sun casting golden hues over the artwork and the waves.
While the sculptures were impressive, the journey between them felt equally rewarding, partly thanks to the help of my taxi driver, who doubled as an unofficial art guide, taking me to each of the artwork locations against the backdrop of the rolling hills from the Santo Peninsula to the Olivian Shodoshima Yuhigaoka Hotel where we stayed. The driver also happened to have a personal interest in these artworks, so his experience made it easier to locate the right spots.
Maze Town and Hishio no Sato
Maze Town
After a morning filled with art, I ventured to Maze Town, an area known for its narrow alleyways and whimsical atmosphere. Historically, this district’s layout was intentionally designed with twisting lanes to deter pirates and enemies, thus giving its maze-like reputation. Despite its name, the neighborhood wasn’t difficult to navigate, but the winding paths did give a sense of playful exploration.
Buildings were adorned with yokai (Japanese folkloric creatures), their colorful and sometimes mischievous forms peeking around corners or painted on walls.
At the center of the town, I found a charming pagoda surrounded by stone walls, a serene spot to take a short break. Climbing a nearby hill, I discovered a bell tower that offered panoramic views of the surrounding town and the sea beyond.
Even with its quiet and quaint atmosphere, Maze Town had an undeniable charm that made it worth the visit.
Hishio no Sato
Next, I headed to Hishio no Sato, Shodoshima’s historic soy sauce and salt making district. This area draws the most visitors thanks to the island’s 400-years-old culinary heritage. The air was thick with the rich aroma of fermenting soy sauce, which is traditionally produced by steaming soybeans, mixing them with roasted wheat and koji mold, and then aging the mixture in large cedar barrels for months or even years until it develops its signature depth of flavor. Walking through the traditional breweries felt like stepping back in time. Many of the factories here still using the same cedar barrels that have been in operation for decades.
Soy sauce ice cream is a local favorite, a surprisingly delightful combination of sweet and savory, like many of the typical sweets and snacks around the area. The balance of flavors reflects the island’s ability to combine its history with modern creativity, and if you want to take home a small taste of Shodoshima, artisan soy sauce comes highly recommended.
Day 4: Himeji Castle and Kokoen Garden
Kokoen Garden’s Tranquil Beauty
I started my fourth and final day of the trip aboard a convenient express ferry that connects Shodoshima with Himeji, happy for a more relaxed pace after several days on the go. My first destination of the day was Kokoen Garden, located right next to Himeji Castle. This Edo-period-inspired oasis felt like the perfect place to take it easy. Unlike Korakuen Garden—which is expansive and encourages free-form wandering around a central pond—Kokoen is smaller and divided into several distinct sections, each separated by corridors and walls that frame the views like carefully arranged pictures.
Right from the entrance, you’re greeted by a corridor overlooking a large pond, guiding you along a more defined route that encourages slow, deliberate exploration of each themed area. Its charm lies in these intimately designed spaces and the orchestrated perspectives they provide, with some vantage points even allowing glimpses of Himeji Castle beyond the garden’s greenery.
The changing colors of autumn amidst the lush greenery of the garden looked especially beautiful reflected on the quiet ponds. I followed winding paths, passing through a bamboo grove swaying gently in the breeze, shortly followed by the soothing sound of water running in a small artificial river.
Tucked at the western end of the garden, I found the Soju-an tea house, where I paused to enjoy a traditional matcha tea. Seated by a window overlooking a pretty and quiet corner of the garden, I sipped the rich green tea accompanied by a beautifully crafted wagashi sweet, filled with delicious red bean paste.
The experience was unhurried, a reminder to savor not just the flavors but also the scenery. Kokoen may be smaller compared to the grandiosity of gardens like Korakuen in Okayama, but its intimacy and attention to detail make it a gem in its own right. Compared to the historical daimyo garden of Korakuen, Kokoen is a relatively new creation, developed in 1992 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Himeji municipal government, giving it a modern layer of heritage that complements its elegant design.
Exploring the Majestic Himeji Castle
From Kokoen Garden, I made my way to Himeji Castle, the undeniable highlight of the day. Approaching the castle from the main gate, called Otemon Gate, I was struck by its sheer presence. Always watching it from afar while riding the Shinkansen, I had been looking forward to visiting this castle for quite a long time. The brilliant white walls of Himeji Castle—often referred to as the "White Heron Castle" due to their elegant, wing-like rooflines—stood in stark contrast to the bright blue sky, giving the structure an almost ethereal quality.
Its history dates back to the early 14th century, a period marked by civil unrest and rebellion against the Kamakura Shogunate, when a fort was first established on this site. The current structure, however, largely took shape during the early 17th century, when the country had entered a more stable era, thanks to the peace brought forth by the Edo Period (1603-1868), allowing for grander architectural achievements. The distinguished castle was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, recognized as an extraordinary architectural feat of its time.
Walking through the castle grounds, it’s not difficult to marvel at the ingenuity of its design, like the angled stone walls and strategic positioning of gates meant to frustrate enemy advances. A nice little detail for your visit is the availability of a downloadable app that provides short clips with additional explanations at many spots. For instance, I learned about things like the “Phantom Windows” that were discovered at one of the recent restorations in the top floor of the main keep, speculated to be part of a design plan that was eventually discarded. This is one of the 12 original castles that has retained its original appearance in Japan, so it’s quite interesting to see the original structures and steep wooden staircases.
The access information warns that the last admission time entry is 1 hour before the closing time, and once inside it’s easy to see why. Himeji Castle, a notable contrast to the reconstructed Okayama Castle, remains much as it was in the 17th century. It will take at least 30 minutes to reach the observatory at the top of the six-story keep, not to mention the added time to explore this large, historically authentic castle. Once there, the castle’s vantage point guarantees the city’s best panoramic views.
In this sense, it’s quite interesting to see how different the experience can be from visiting one castle to another.
One castle has taken full advantage of the opportunities that come with the need for rebuilding, and true to its sleek and fashionably dark exterior, has turned its interior into a modern and interactive museum. The other castle, sentinel of its own authenticity, takes pride in its historical roots to surprise contemporary audiences with its centuries-old architectural genius, while taking advantage of smartphone technologies to keep up with the times without having to sacrifice an ounce of its historical and structural integrity.
And I’m genuinely grateful I’ve had the opportunity to experience both.
Over four days, the Setouchi region unfolded as a place where history and creativity meet in unexpected ways. Each destination brought its own depth and character, tying the experience to the way these places reflected the region’s identity, masterfully balancing tradition with innovation. And the greatest charm of them all: it undoubtedly leaves you yearning for more.
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Hyogo
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