Day 1: Yamaguchi – History and Art in Nagato and Hagi

Motonosumi Shrine

A sunny public holiday greeted me as I set off toward Motonosumi Shrine, and I soon realized I wasn’t the only one drawn to the beauty of the coast that day. The roads became increasingly crowded as I neared the shrine, filled with visitors as eager to see this gorgeous shrine as I was. Fortunately, the delay was not too severe.

Motonosumi Shrine is perched dramatically along the northern coast of Yamaguchi in Nagato, where 123 red torii gates create a winding path down to the sea. Stepping out and walking through those gates, each vibrant archway framing the deep blue of the Sea of Japan, the anticipation felt worth it. The shrine’s origin story is tied to a vision of a white fox, a tale that locals say wove together the spiritual atmosphere here. On the grounds of the shrine, you can see many stone statues and other objects featuring foxes. As I wandered down the path, I caught glimpses of the waves crashing against the rocky coastline below, adding to the dramatic backdrop of the scene.

The shrine’s unique offering box is placed high atop the large torii gate that’s right before the worship hall, and visitors—myself included—tried their luck tossing coins in hopes of landing one inside. I missed on my first try, but the challenge had its own charm. The coastal wind, more forceful than expected, made it a bit tricky, yet it also added to the shrine's wild, untamed character.

Hagi Pottery at Choungama

Leaving Motonosumi Shrine behind, the coastal road soon gave way to a quieter landscape as I made my way toward Hagi.  A shift from the bright, wind-swept sea to a town that seemed almost frozen in time. Hagi’s streets, lined with white-walled samurai residences, are like a living museum of an era when it was a stronghold for the Choshu Domain (roughly equivalent to Yamaguchi Prefecture nowadays), the rulers of the region during the Edo Period (1603-1868).

Hagi was a contrast to the energy of the shrine, but the rhythm of the drive allowed time to transition between these two worlds. Arriving at Choungama, the surroundings shifted from open skies to the cozy, kiln-warmed workshop nestled in the woods shifting the focus to the slow, patient craft of Hagi pottery. Here, The instructor walked me through the art of crafting Aohagi, a blue-glazed pottery that somehow mirrored the sea I’d left behind. This is a very special style developed by Choungama, with unique qualities that set it apart from traditional Hagi pottery which is usually glazed in white or warm neutral colors. Trying to shape clay into something that I could use was humbling, as it became evident that a seemingly simple task was the result of the highest skill that made it seem effortless.

A Town of samurai and merchants, Hagi Castle Town

As the day waned, I took to the streets of Hagi Castle Town. Walking through its historic grid pattern, past the earthen walls and lush summer trees, I couldn’t help but feel like I’d stepped back into the Edo period (1603-1868).

But at the same time, Hagi's story is closely tied to the rise of the Meiji era (1868-1912) thanks to the support of the feudal lords of the Choshu Domain who supported the restoration of imperial power to end the rule of the Tokugawa Shogunate. It was a time when change swept quickly through the country, and yet, in these quiet corners, it felt as though time had stood still. But despite being almost the end of daytime activities, it was evident the town was full of life. 

Many historical houses were still inhabited and lots of local businesses were clearly catering to the locals and not just casual tourists. It’s not a museum but a very much alive piece of history.

Day 2: Yamaguchi – Scenic Countryside and Historical Stay

FURUSATO CYCLING【Sake, from field to brewery】: Cycling Through Hagi’s Countryside

The next morning began with the FURUSATO CYCLING【Sake, from field to brewery】, an e-bike journey through Hagi’s scenic countryside, its beautiful rice fields and all the stages of sake brewing. After an explanation on how to ride an e-bike, we set off, gliding along quiet roads bordered stunning natural landscapes.

My guide explained the difference between rice grown for eating and the special grains used in sake brewing, a detail that deepened my appreciation for the local craft. The next stop was a sake factory where this rice is processed. An integral part of this process lies with sake rice polishing, which defines the quality of its resulting sake, so this tour also includes a visit to a rice polishing factory, which offered a rare peek of the process. This is one of those behind-the-scenes experiences that felt like a hidden gem, particularly considering that there are very few places in Japan where the general public can observe the polishing of sake rice.

Unrinji (Cat Temple): A Quirky Spiritual Stop

After a wonderful lunch break at a local restaurant, our next stop was Unrinji, a temple affectionately known as the “Cat Temple” and with a story that goes back to the 17th Century. This unique spot is filled with cat figurines, paintings, and playful decorations. Everything you can think of in a Buddhist temple, has its feline equivalent here: a cat monk behind the temple’s donation box, countless manekineko cats (lucky cat figurines often found at the entrance of Japanese shops and restaurants), cat-shaped ema (wooden votive plaques) or cat-themed omikuji (fortune papers you can draw at shrines and temples), among many more endearing details that makes this place a genuinely one of a kind.

A series of illustrations explain the story behind the temple, which was about a loyal cat who wouldn’t leave the grave of its master Nagai Motofusa, a retainer of the famous samurai Mouri Terumoto, even going as far as spending nearly 50 days sitting there until the cat died as well. It’s a poignant story that has inspired a place full of spirituality and joy for cat lovers.

Sake Brewing at Yachiyo Shuzo: From Grain to Glass

The tour continued to Yachiyo Shuzo, a family-run sake brewery where I learned about the intricate process of sake production. The brewery’s master brewer and/or her mother guides you through the fermentation rooms and the different stages of sake production. At the end, you get the opportunity of sake tasting and also, the pure, fresh water that plays a crucial role in brewing.

The richness of the sake-making tradition comes alive here. The tour concludes with a sake tasting, which I couldn’t indulge in as I was driving, but that would have been a fitting conclusion to the tour otherwise, seamlessly connecting the landscapes of Hagi to its time-honored craft.

Matsudaya Hotel: A Meiji-Era Elegance

By late afternoon, I reached my destination for the night: the Matsudaya Hotel. This beautiful ryokan is also a window into a pivotal era of Japan’s history. Located in Yuda Onsen, Matsudaya Hotel has hosted figures from the Meiji Restoration, a crucial time that created the foundation for Japan’s transformation from a feudal system into a modern nation, so it felt like a fitting place to reflect on the day’s journey through Hagi’s past.

The kaiseki dinner was a feast for the senses. Each delicacy was skillfully crafted to showcase the best of the region’s culinary culture and the most delicious seasonal specialties. The sashimi was a highlight, delicately served with shiso flowers (an edible plant used frequently in Japanese cuisine. Its leaves are often used as garnish in sushi or sashimi dishes and its flowers are used sometimes as edible decorations) which added an interesting note to the flavor. The tuna and sea bream were perfect, and the rich texture of the pike conger eel added a nice balanced accent to the meal.

Despite the urban setting, the hotel’s garden immerses you in the feeling that you are on a most tranquil retreat, with meticulously arranged stones and water features that feel like an extension of the surrounding mountains. I wandered through the grounds after dinner, watching the soft garden lights filter through the trees, casting shadows that danced across the paths.

Afterward, I took a long soak in the onsen, letting the warmth seep into my muscles, soothing the day’s ride away. There’s something about the natural hot springs of Yuda Onsen that feels restorative for both the body and the spirit.

Day 3: Yamaguchi to Miyajima – Scenic Bridges and Island Stay

Crossing into Iwakuni: A Bridge Between Past and Present

The following day, I left Yuda Onsen behind, heading toward the historic town of Iwakuni. The journey offered a sense of anticipation, as the modern highways gradually gave way to rolling hills and glimpses of the Seto Inland Sea.

My destination was the iconic Kintaikyo Bridge, a wooden marvel of engineering that stretches gracefully across the Nishiki River. The bridge's five arches, meticulously constructed, are an engineering marvel from the Edo period that has withstood the test of time thanks to local preservation efforts. Walking across it over the steady flow of the river below, I couldn’t help but admire how seamlessly human craftsmanship could complement nature’s beauty.

Walking across the bridge, you can reach Kikko Park, a historically rich spot developed from the former residence of the feudal lord. There we can still see traditional buildings and get a sense of samurai history from that era.

On to Miyajima: A Timeless and Sacred Island

By mid-afternoon, I arrived at the Miyajima Ferry Terminal and boarded the ferry to Miyajima. As the island's famous Otorii gate came into view, standing tall in the waters of the Seto Inland Sea, the excitement of reaching Miyajima began to build. The ferry ride was brief but gave me time to appreciate the blend of natural and man-made beauty that defines the region.

Arriving on the island in the afternoon, it didn’t take long for the crowds to thin out, leaving behind a sense of tranquility that felt like it might never end. Unlike the hurried visitors rushing back to catch the ferry around sunset, I had the luxury of exploring Miyajima’s quiet streets in the soft light of early evening. The island seemed to breathe differently after the day’s bustle, and I wandered past traditional inns and souvenir shops, soaking in the atmosphere of an island that holds its secrets until the day-trippers are gone.

The air was cool, filled with the salty scent of the sea, and the quiet murmur of the few visitors left created an almost reverent atmosphere. I stayed on the island overnight, the experience taking on a different dimension as night fell. The illuminated torii gate, its reflection shimmering in the dark waters, was a sight to behold. I could explore at a slower pace, feeling more like a guest of the island rather than just a visitor.

That night, Miyajima wrapped itself in silence, the only sound the gentle lapping of the waves against the shore.

Day 4: Miyajima and Hiroshima – Sacred Sites and Historical Reflections

Morning on Miyajima: The Spiritual Side of the Island

Waking up on Miyajima, I hoped for a tranquil morning, but enthusiastic crowds were present even in the early hours. Quite understandably, as you cannot be fooled by the island’s small size, as there is a lot to see and do. I met my tour guide for an overview of the essentials, and as we began, he surprised me with something I hadn’t realized before: The mountains show a clear shape of the profile of Buddha’s face!

We continued to walk along the impressive wooden hall of Hokokujinja, a Shinto shrine from the 16th Century that’s part of Itsukushima Shrine, but with a distinct style that’s partially the result of it being unfinished. My guide explains it was supposed to be painted vermillion but it was left in its current state because of the founder’s death. But I reckon the more natural sight of wood adds to the overall charm. Nearby, there’s one of the most recognizable spots in the island besides the Otorii is the Five-story Pagoda, a treasure from the 15th Century and a valuable piece of historical heritage.

We made our way back to Itsukushima Shrine, this time with a different atmosphere during low tide and the Otorii accessible on foot. It was a beautiful clear day, which made the contrast with the brilliant vermillion of the structures even more striking.

Not far from the shrine, I visited Daishoin Temple, a treasure trove of Buddhist iconography. As I wandered through its grounds, I discovered stone statues of countless monks, many wearing their typical knitted caps, and with an impressive variety of expressions and gestures, which made each one truly unique. My guide chided in: turns out, if you look closely enough with patience, you will find one like yourself!

okeiko Japan: Creating a Personal Souvenir

My time at Miyajima was nearing the end. But before leaving the island, I joined a hands-on experience at okeiko Japan, where I crafted my own omamori charm (small protection amulets found in Japanese temples and shrines). Guided by the gentle instructions of the staff, I chose from a variety of brightly colored fabrics, each cut from worn kimono cloth, and stitched my wish into the small charm.

Crafting the calligraphy was a simple but meaningful way to take a piece of Miyajima’s spirit with me, as some of the most cherished mementos are those you create yourself. The calligraphy option was just as intriguing, offering a chance to try writing a kanji on a Miyajima shakushi. This typical Japanese wooden rice paddle is a beloved symbol in the island, as it is said that it was a local monk who invented it.

Hiroshima Castle: Reflections on the Past

Returning to the mainland, I made my final stop at Hiroshima Castle. While the castle’s modern reconstruction might not hold the same ancient wood as other landmarks, it has become a powerful symbol of Hiroshima’s resilience after the atomic bomb destruction. Walking through the castle grounds, surrounded by the remnants of its stone walls, I found myself reflecting on the city’s layered history, its feudal past as a center of regional power and its rebirth after unimaginable loss.

The castle’s interior houses exhibit this journey, from the days of samurai lords to the reconstruction efforts that followed World War II.

The view from the top of the tower offers a panoramic look at modern Hiroshima, the city’s skyline blending with the greenery of its parks. It’s a place that encourages you to look back and forward at the same time, much like the Setouchi region itself.

As I return home, I’m left with a deeper appreciation for the way the Setouchi region has held onto its traditions. Each stop reveals a piece of the story, a connection to the past that continues to shape the present. It’s a place where history and traditions are kept alive, where the traces of ancient routes linger in the landscapes and the daily rhythms of the people who call this region home.