A Foodie's Journey Through the History of Hiroshima and Yamaguchi

Enjoy sublime seafood and local delicacies on this four-day itinerary through Hiroshima and Yamaguchi. We head west along the Seto Inland Sea coast from the port town of Onomichi to Hiroshima, before hitting the hot spring retreats of Yamaguchi Prefecture by way of Iwakuni's grand Kintaikyo bridge and Hagi on the Japan Sea coast.

Travel: Hiroshima to Iwakuni

・Direct buses to Kintaikyo Bridge, Iwakuni leave from Hiroshima Bus Center (Approx 55 minutes)
・Alternatively take a local train from Hiroshima to Iwakuni (Approx 50 minutes) and travel to Kintaikyo Bridge by taxi (Approx 12 minutes) or local bus (Approx 30 minutes)

Kintaikyo Bridge

A magnificent wooden pedestrian bridge with five arches, Kintaikyo Bridge is the main attraction in Iwakuni. The original bridge was built in 1673, but the first few bridges that were built were heavily damaged or completely washed away during heavy rains. The people decided to build the wooden bridge on stone pillars and they finally had a bridge that could withstand the heavy rains. It lasted over 200 years before a super typhoon came through in 1950 and damaged the bridge. To this day, Iwakuni has preserved the process of building the bridge in its original form and all restoration projects are done following the guidelines of the original build.

Kikko Park and Iwakuni Castle

Located next to Kintaikyo Bridge, Kikko Park offers a place to sit and take a break or walk around and enjoy the greenery. On the way to the park is a famous soft serve spot, Sasakiya Kojiro Shoten, where you can grab a cone to enjoy. Also located in the park area is Iroya Gallery, a great spot to view works from local artists and purchase some unique souvenirs or gifts.

Renkon (Lotus Root)

Iwakuni Sushi

Iwakuni Sushi is similar to chirashi-zushi, but it is pressed into a wooden mold. It contains Iwakuni lotus root and fresh fish from the Seto Inland Sea for the toppings. This famous local dish can also be sampled at Honke Matsugane. Hirasei is one of the restaurants around Kintaikyo Bridge that offer Iwakuni Sushi on their menu.

Before you leave Iwakuni

Drop in at Murashige Sake Brewery, a short walk from Shin-Iwakuni Station, before you head to Yamaguchi. As well as marveling at the world’s biggest sugi-dama (the cedar balls that you see hanging in front of sake breweries and shops), you can enjoy sake tastings, try sweets made from sake and sake lees and pick up unique souvenirs.

Travel: Iwakuni to Yamaguchi

・Take the Shinkansen from Shin-Iwakuni Station to Shin-Yamaguchi Station (Approx 30 minutes)
・Take a local train from Shin-Yamaguchi Station to Yamaguchi Station (Approx 25 minutes)

Rurikoji Temple

Rurikoji Temple is most famous for its stunning five-storied pagoda. The five storied pagoda is recognized as a national treasure and is ranked among the top three greatest pagodas in Japan. A large restoration project is estimated to be completed in autumn 2025.

Kawara “Roof Tile” Soba

A specialty of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Kawara Soba is green tea soba served on a hot roof tile (kawara) with beef, thinly sliced egg, seaweed, grated daikon, and slices of lemon on top. It is served with a broth to dip the noodles in before eating. Kawara Soba Yanagiya Yamaguchi on the Ichinosaka River is a popular spot to enjoy this tasty dish in Yamaguchi City.

Travel: Yamaguchi to Yuda Onsen

・Take a local train from Yamaguchi Station to Yuda Onsen Station (Less than 5 minutes)
・By taxi (Approx 10 minutes)

Accommodation: Matsudaya Hotel

A hotel that has been around for over 300 years, when you step into Matsudaya Hotel you will feel like you have stepped back in time. The main building was built in the Taisho period and guests who stay in this building are also able to see the garden from their room. Meals are served in the guest rooms, providing privacy as guests dine on exquisitely prepared dishes using seasonal and local ingredients. A stay at this historical property is a must when visiting Yamaguchi City and the Yuda Onsen area.

URL: https://www.matsudayahotel.co.jp

Travel note

Although a local train makes the scenic journey along the Japan Sea Coast between Nagato and Shimonoseki in around 2 hours, to enjoy this beautiful area to the fullest we recommend renting a car or engaging the services of a charter taxi.

Omijima and the “Alps of the Sea”

Before heading west towards Shimonoseki, check out the scenic island of Omijima. Part of the Kita-Nagato Quasi-National Park, it is protected for its natural beauty and a great hiking path offers breathtaking views of the coastline, rocks that have been carved by the ocean, and some beautiful cliffs. It’s easy to see how it got the nickname, “Alps of the Sea”, when hiking along the coastline.

To get an even closer look at this dramatic scenery, take one of the Omishima sightseeing boat tours that depart from Senzaki Fishing Port.

Senza Kitchen

This roadside station in Nagato is a great spot to stop for lunch or a snack. Senza Kitchen is located near Omijima Island and inside you will find a restaurant that serves fresh seafood, a coffee stand, a little farmers market, and more. For visitors who have children, the Nagato Toy Museum is located right by Senz　a Kitchen and is really a large indoor play area with different stations for children to play in.

URL: https://www.visit-jy.com/en/spots/17856

Motonosumi Shrine

If time allows, a visit to Motonosumi Shrine is a must. The views from this shrine are pretty amazing and the 123 red torii gates leading to a cliff make for some beautiful photos. The offering box is also unique here. It sits on top of the large torii gate and legend has it that the wishes will come true for those who are able to throw the coins up into the box.

If driving from Nagato to Shimonoseki, we recommend stopping by Tsunoshima Bridge. The bridge is 1780 meters in length and connects Tsunoshima Island to mainland Japan. The design of the bridge is beautiful and this is another spot that offers some great scenery.

Shimonoseki

On the western tip of the island of Honshu, Shimonoseki sits on the Kanmon Straits, across which an impressive bridge stretches to the island Kyushu. These straits have been an important crossing point since ancient times, connecting the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea.

It was in the Kanmon Straits that separate Shimonoseki from the island of Kyushu that the Battle of Dan-no-ura was fought in 1185, a pivotal battle in the struggle between the two great samurai houses, the Taira (Heike) and Minamoto clans. In the face of a decisive defeat, many of the Taira forces committed suicide, including the child emperor Antoku, whose tomb is found at nearby Akama Shrine. Two impressive statues depicting the clan leaders stand in Mimosusogawa Park – Taira Tomomori, tied to an anchor before plunging himself into the sea, and Minamoto no Yoshitsune making his legendary “eight-boat leap”.

Karato Market

Fresh seafood lovers will enjoy walking around Karato Fish Market. Local fishermen have been selling their freshly caught fish here since 1909, when it was a street market, so it’s a great spot to grab some really fresh sashimi bowls or sushi for some very reasonable prices. Shimonoseki is famous for its fugu (blowfish) and the Karato Market is also a good spot to give this fish a try.

Be on the lookout for fugu (pufferfish) sashimi, a local specialty and a must-try in Shimonoseki. Fugu is notorious for the neurotoxins found in parts of the fish that need to be carefully removed before eating. Sale of fugu is tightly controlled and only those with a special license are allowed to prepare it. More fugu is landed at Shimonoseki than any other port in Japan and the fugu sashimi served by vendors at Karato Fish Market is not only super fresh, but doesn’t come at the premium prices you will find elsewhere in Japan.

If raw fish makes you nervous, try Fugu karaage (deep fried pufferfish) from one of the vendors among the souvenir shops along Kanmon Wharf. For a more refined Fugu dining experience with a great view of the Kaimon Straits Bridge, head to Heike Chaya.

Tea Room Liz

Conclude your culinary tour of far western Honshu in style, at this afternoon tea spot located near the Kanmon Wharf. The building it’s located in was formerly the British Consulate in Shimonoseki and the design of the building is very different from all other buildings in the area. It’s a great spot to grab a cup of tea and some sweets, or indulge in the whole afternoon tea experience. Reservations are required for the afternoon tea experience.