Take a Deep Dive into the History and Culture of Hiroshima and Yamaguchi

This four-day itinerary takes in the sites of several pivotal events in Japanese history. From a dramatic medieval sea battle, to samurai castle towns and World Heritage Sites, concluding with the tragedy of Hiroshima, this is a must-do off-the-beaten-track adventure for history fans. There is also, of course, time for hot spring relaxation, great food and stunning scenery.

Travel: Nagato Yumoto Onsen to Hagi

・It is a 35-minute dive from Nagato Yumoto Onsen to Hagi.
・Alternatively, taking the local train from Nagato Yumoto Station to Hagi Station, changing trains at Nagato takes between 1 and 2 hours.

The seaside castle town of Hagi

The drive (or train ride) from Nagato Yumoto Onsen to Hagi is another scenic journey through the countryside with glimpses of the Sea of Japan. Enjoy views of the mountains, rice fields, old houses, and everyday life in the Japan countryside. It was to the relative backwater of Hagi that the powerful Mori clan were relegated after they found themselves on the losing side in the struggle for control of Japan that was decided at the climactic Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 and ushered in the Tokugawa Shogunate. In the 19th century, however, the small city was to have a historical impact beyond its size as one of the movements that led to the Meiji Restoration, bringing an end to the 250 year dominance of the Tokugawa Shogunate in the 1860s.

The castle town area of Hagi is where you will find historic homes, castle ruins, and pottery shops. See the defensive strategies employed in designing the white-walled lanes and feed the koi carp along the Aibagawa River. It’s very easy to spend a few hours here walking around admiring the old buildings and ducking into pottery shops so be sure to allow ample time to explore this area. If you get hungry while wandering around, there are also a few cafes in and around the old castle town where you can enjoy a meal or a snack.


Hagi Mae 698 provides excellent cycle tours of the castle town and surrounding areas, providing easy to understand historical context and local knowledge.

Tokoji Temple

Founded in 1691, Tokoji Temple is where the graveyard for the third, fifth, seventh, ninth, and eleventh Mori feudal lords is located. The first, second, fourth, sixth, eighth, tenth, and twelfth lords are buried at nearby Daishoin Temple. Here you will see a Chinese influenced architectural style that is noticeable when entering the red Chinese style gate at the main entrance. The graveyard is located in the back of the temple and the tombs overlook hundreds of stone lanterns that were donated by members of the clan. The stone lanterns at Tokoji are lit every year at the start of the Obon festival to welcome home the souls of the dead and then again on the last day of the event to guide the souls back to the land of the dead.

Hagi-yaki Pottery

Hagi is one of the most famous pottery towns in Japan. Approximately 400 years ago the local feudal lord, Terumoto Mori, appointed potters in the castle town to create pottery for his own personal use and to be used as gifts. Hagi ware is known for its natural texture which comes from the type of local clay that is used. For those who wish to try their hand at making pottery there are some pottery shops that offer a pottery making or pottery painting experience. One shop near the castle ruins that offers this type of experience is Senshuraku Jozan Pottery Studio. To the west (relatively close to Tokoji Temple), also offers workshops and showcases an interesting
Tenryu Pottery Studio (Japanese) selection of traditional Hagi ware alongside contemporary interpretations. Advance reservations are generally required for pottery workshops.

Travel: Hagi To Yuda Onsen

・It is approximately 1 hour by car from Hagi to Yuda Onsen.
・Alternatively take a bus from Hagi to Yamaguchi Station and change to a local rain to Yuda Onsen Station (Approx 2 hours)

Yuda Onsen

Yuda Onsen is a small onsen area located in Yamaguchi City that dates back to around the year 1200. There is a legendary tale that states the natural hot spring was first discovered when an injured white fox wandered into the springs and was healed.

There are several public ashiyu, hot springs in which to warm and relax your feet, in the town. At the chic, modern Kitsune-no-ashiato (Foxes Footprints) Cafe and Information Center, you can enjoy ashiyu both inside and in the garden, as well as coffee, desserts and local sake tasting sets.

A beautiful five-storied pagoda built in 1442 can be seen in the picturesque grounds of Rurikoji Temple, about 8 minutes by car from Yuda Onsen (undergoing extensive restoration project until autumn season of 2025).

Accommodation: Matsudaya Hotel

A hotel that has been around for over 300 years, when you step into Matsudaya Hotel you will feel like you have stepped back in time. The main building was built in the Taisho period and guests who stay in this building are also able to see the garden from their room. Meals are served in the guest rooms, providing privacy as guests dine on exquisitely prepared dishes using seasonal and local ingredients. A stay at this historical property is a must when visiting Yamaguchi City and the Yuda Onsen area.

URL: https://www.matsudayahotel.co.jp

Daishoin Temple

Daishoin was founded in 806 by Kukai (known posthumously as Kobo Daishi), who was one of the most famous monks in Japan and the founder of Shingon Buddhism. There are many buildings and statues to enjoy as you walk around the grounds. On the steps to the temple are spinning wheels inscribed with Buddhist scriptures. It is said that turning the scriptures as you walk up the steps will have the same benefits as reading them, so even if the one spinning the wheels doesn’t speak or read Japanese, they can also receive the blessings that usually come with reading the scriptures. Daishoin is a temple where visitors will want to take their time and really see everything on their grounds. It is especially beautiful in the fall, when the maple trees on the grounds change colors.

Kimono and culture workshops in a local temple with OKEIKO Japan

Experience wearing a kimono, take part in a Japanese tea ceremony or, try your hand at Japanese calligraphy in a historic temple with a pretty garden with Okeiko Japan on Miyajima. The kimono wearing experience is a very popular one and people are often amazed by how complex dressing in kimono actually is. Once dressed, visitors have an opportunity to use their cameras or phones for photos. Because Okeiko Japan is located in an old temple, there are some great photo ops.

Travel: Miyajima to Hiroshima

・Take the ferry from Miyajima to Miyajima-guchi (Approx 10 minutes)
・Take the local train from Miyajima-guchi Station to Hiroshima Station (Approx 30 minutes)

World Heritage Sea Route
High speed ferries make the journey between Hiroshima’s two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in approximately 45 minutes. Ferries leave for Hiroshima from the pier next to the main passenger ferry terminal. Please check the website as schedules change according to the tides.

URL: http://www.aqua-net-h.co.jp/en/heritage/

Hiroshima Atomic Bomb Dome & Peace Memorial Park

Originally built in 1915, the building formerly known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall was destroyed on August 6, 1945 when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. What remained was preserved, and in 1996 it was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List as a symbol of the devastation that was caused by the first atomic bomb.

In addition to the A-bomb Dome, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park is also home to many memorials and monuments, including the Cenotaph for the Victims of the Atomic Bomb, Peace Flame, and the well interpreted Peace Memorial Museum.

Hiroshima Castle & Shukkeien Garden

Feudal lord, Terumoto Mori chose Hiroshima as the capital of the expansive holdings he inherited from his father, the great samurai Motonari Mori, and built his castle here in 1589, only to be sent to Hagi after defeat at the Battle of Sekigahara just over a decade later. The castle buildings were destroyed by the atomic bomb in 1945. Inside the reconstructed keep, visitors will find a history museum and visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding area from the top floor.

Shukkeien Garden was built by Nagaakira Asano who became lord of Hiroshima in 1619. The garden’s path circles a pretty lake and takes you through a variety of scenery and past tea houses and trees that survived the A-bombing. Feed the resident carp and look out for turtles sunbathing on the rocks.

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a Hiroshima specialty that is a must try when visiting this area. It’s like a savory crepe with lots of shredded cabbage, some soba noodles or udon noodles, some more crepe batter, and thin slices of pork (kind of like bacon, but different) piled on top. It gets flipped and pressed so that it kind of looks like a pancake. Kind of. A savory sauce is brushed on top and some seaweed is sprinkled on top. A small metal spatula is given to each person and typically this is what is used to cut and each the okonomiyaki right off the grill. For those who can’t eat pork, it can be ordered without it.